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Although, I wouldn't suggest getting a colorimeter (measuring device) unless the TV in question has Gain/Bias controls at the very least, but is it worth spending $200 on a colorimeter to calibrate a $500 HDTV for example like the Sony W600B? Probably not, but I did it purely out of interest more than anything else.

If the TV has a 10-pt White Balance controls, definitely worth investing in one if time isn't a factor. But for basic calibration, either or even the one is pretty good for basic calibration. But if getting a colorimeter is in future plans, either,, or AVS HD 709 will have the necessary test patterns for a more extensive calibration. Disney World of Wonder is pretty lacking for grayscale measurements. From what I've overheard on avsforum.com, they're a waste of money generally. Quality varies too much and is very much a gamble because of that. Some are legitimately good and knowledgeable, and some are just bad and misinformed.

Even if you can escape those odds and do get that one guy who knows what he's doing - well-versed and has the necessary equipment to do an actual ISF certified level calibration - what's an accurate picture like to differentiate his work from the work of his coworkers? And unless you have your own colorimeter and software (HCFR, CalMan, ChromaPure) to measure and compare their changes or get a detailed calibration summary, you might as well do it yourself at that point. Avsforum has a thread for finding your local ISF calibrator if you go down this route. From what I've overheard on avsforum.com, they're a waste of money generally. Quality varies too much and is very much a gamble because of that. Some are legitimately good and knowledgeable, and some are just bad and misinformed. Even if you can escape those odds and do get that one guy who knows what he's doing - well-versed and has the necessary equipment to do an actual ISF certified level calibration - what's an accurate picture like to differentiate his work from the work of his coworkers?

And unless you have your own colorimeter and software (HCFR, CalMan, ChromaPure) to measure and compare their changes or get a detailed calibration summary, you might as well do it yourself at that point. Avsforum has a thread for finding your local ISF calibrator if you go down this route. Yes, that BD for basic calibration although, it seems out of print now.

Is a free alternative followed by if you wish to purchase. Disney WOW is still an option as it's very user friendly, just make sure you get one new or used with a blue filter or you'll have to buy the filter separately. AVS HD 709 doesn't have any tutorial videos like in Disney WOW, so you'll have to follow the documentation in to understand what you need to adjust for with the basic video patterns (brightness, contrast, sharpness and overscan). If you bought the Spears & Munsil BD, it'll come with a blue filter which you can use to adjust color and tint (). Personally, color saturation adjustments with a blue filter oversaturates the picture although a slightly oversaturated picture is probably better than an undersaturated one, but when you have zero reference on what a reference picture looks like (no pun intended), it can be incredibly hard.

Page 9 pretty much asks you to eyeball the saturation levels while Page 23 at the very least makes it visible through the use of a blue filter where the median is. That's pretty much all you need to know for basic calibration and can do without buying equipment. If you want to do more extensive calibration, you're talking colorimeters like the and software to read and translate that data (,, or ). Extra money that's easily a few hundred like $150-200 solely for the i1Display Pro colorimeter I just mentioned. HCFR is free software, but it's definitely not the most user-friendly software (but it's free). That's where the Disney WOW becomes useless compared to Spears & Munsil or Digital Video Essentials and even AVS HD 709 because you need the test patterns to calibrate your grayscale and your TV must have some form of white balance controls, preferably 10-pt or more to have any meaningful adjustments to your overall gamma whether it's a flat 2.2 or BT.1886.

So yeah, it depends how much you're willing to spend and what TV you have more than anything else personally.

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